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Friday, August 6th 2004, 8:06am

Gasherbrum I & II Exp.

auch diese mail haben wir erhalten

HUNZA GUIDES PAKISTAN
Expeditions Trekking & Tours E-mail: hgp@comsats.net.pk
P.O. Box 468 G-9 Markaz hunzaguides@yahoo.com
Islamabad ?Pakistan info@hunzaguidespakistan.com
Tel: + 92 51 210 68 91 Web: www.hgp.com.pk
Fax: + 92 51 210 68 37 www.hunzaguidespakistan.com




Gasherbrum-I (8068-M)
Gasherbrum-II (8035-M)
Expedition 2004


Gasherbrum-I (8068M)
Gasherbrum means a shining wall. There are six Gasherbrum peaks in the Karakorum Range. It was captain Young husband and his party, which in 1889 discovered Gasherbrum glacier.
American Geologist-cum-climber and winner of the 1936 Olympic Gold Medal visited the area and after doing some photographic work on the Baltoro glacier, made an attempt on the southeast ridge of Gasherbrum-I, which is also called Hidden Peak (8068m/26,470ft). In 1935, Dr. P.C. Visser, a Dutch, and his party surveyed Gasherbrum glacier. It was, however, in 1936 that a strong French expedition led by H. de Segogne tried its luck on Gasherbrum-I. The party went up to 6,797m/22300ft where camp-V was established. Subsequently the party located a place for camp -VI at 7,010m/23000ft. it was however, due to a continuous storm and bad weather that the party was forced to abandon its plan. It was however, an American expedition of Nick Clinch, which in 1958 climbed Gasherbrum-I peak. Schoening and Kaufman went to its top.

Gasherbrum-II (8035-M)
Gasherbrum means a shining wall. There are six Gasherbrum peaks in the Karakorum Range. It was captain Young husband and his party, which in 1889 discovered Gasherbrum glacier.
In 1956, members of an Austrian Karakorum expedition climbed Gasherbrum-II (8035m/26,361ft). The party was led by Fritz Moravec. It set up a base camp on the south Gasherbrum glacier. Camp?1 was set up at 6,005m/19,700ft. It was here that the party was forced to stay for ten days because of a severe storm. Consequently it lost a large supply store in an avalanche. After setting up a few more camps, Fritz Moravec, Josef larch and Hans Willenpart set up a bivouac below 7,620m/25,000ft. Inspite of frostbites suffered in the bivouac, the three reached the summit of Gasherbrum-II on the 8th July and came back without meeting any further accident.

60 days detail Itinerary

D-01 Islamabad
Arrive at Islamabad and transfer to hotel. Afternoon city tour of Rawalpindi. Meals & overnight at hotel
Rawalpindi is a lively, bustling city with the crowded streets and colorful bazaars, thorough it lacks the grand monuments; nonetheless, the bazaar should appeal to anyone with the desire to see the real Pakistan.

D- 02 Islamabad (Briefing)
A.M Briefing with Ministry of Tourism, afternoon Preparation of expedition in HGP Office and city tour of Islamabad.
Islamabad is new capital 36 years old well-planed city of Pakistan is lush green at the footsteps of potwar hills. Visit one of the biggest Shah Faisal mosques in the world; also an interesting round trip combines a tour of Shakespearian Park with a visit to Lok versa, the institute of Folk and Traditional Heritage. M/& overnight at hotel

D- 03 Islamabad ?Chilas
Drive to Chilas (11-12 hrs) Meals & O/n at Shangri-La Resort
Karakorum high way is 8th wonder of the world. The Karakorum Highway was constructed jointly by the Chinese and Pakistanis, begun in 1960s and finally constructed in 1976,s as a link road between Pakistan and China. It is an engineering wonder, but at the cost of many lives

D- 04 Chilas -Skardu
Drive to Skardu (8-9 hrs) on Karakorum highway along-with Indus River. Meals & O/n at Concordia Motel

D- 05 Skardu ?Thongal/Askoli
Drive to Thongal by jeep via Shigar Valley (8-9 hrs) 3000Mtr. Meals & O/n in camp
It is spectacular drive from Skardu to Askoli; the jeep road crosses the Braldu River three times and passes the villages of Dassu, Apligon, Pakora, Hoto chongo and Thongal. There are hot Sulphur Springs just 20 minutes behind Thongal. Around the hot springs are copper colored stones known as Limpi Kiser (Kiser Fort) King Kiser was a mythical ruler with magical powers- dozens of legends tell of his exploits in Baltistan, Nagar and Hunza Valley.

D- 06 Thongal- Johla
Trek to Johla (4-5 hrs). Meals & O/n in camp.
Today we have panoramic view of Bakhor Das peak 5809m) also mighty Biafo Glacier. Follow the riverside trail to the confluence of the Biafo and Dumordo rivers. Cross the formidable Domordo River, which flows from the Panmah glaciers, on a cable to Jhola. Camp at Jhola at 3300m.

D- 07 Johla -Paiyu
Trek to Paiyu (5-6 hrs) (3650Mrs) Meals & O/n in camp
This is an undulating walk, difficult at times, with the first views of dramatic mountains ahead. There is a rest stop by some tamarisk trees beside the stream flowing down from Paiyu Peak, where we saw ibex tracks and fox spore. The trail climbs to a vantage point from which you see the snout of Baltoro Glacier and, in the far distance, a magnificent panorama of the Cathedral Towers and, left of them, the unmistakable triangle of K2.

D- 08 Paiyu - Rest day
Free day for local exploration and Porter will prepare their food for further trek also kill the goat, driven from Askoli and sing and dance through most of the night. Meals & O/n in camp

D- 09 Paiyu -Urdukas
Trek to Urdukas (6-7-hrs) 4210 Mt. Beautiful views of Great Trango & Uli Biaho Towers. The tail traverses the glacier angling gently towards its southeast margin. Exit the glacier in to the ablation valley at Liligo. The route alternates between the lateral moraine and the glacier, heading out on the glacier to avoid the outflow from the advancing Liligo glacier. Continue trek to Urdukas, named for the obvious split boulder. Camp with its extraordinary views of Paiyu Peak (6610-m, Uli Biaho (6417-m) Great Trango Tower (6286-m), Lobsang Spire (5707-m) and the Cathedral Towers. Meals & overnight in Camp

D- 10 Urdukas ?Goro -II
Trek to Goro II (5-6 hrs) 4525 Mts. A spectacular views of Masherbrum (7821m) & Muztagh Tower (7284m).
Meals & O/n in Camp

D- 11 Goro- II/Bienge ?Concordia
Trek to Concordia (5-6-hrs) camp at 4700mt. Today it is golden opportunity to see 7000mt to above 8000mt peaks including mighty K-2 (8611m) Broad Peak 8047mt G-I 8068mt G-II 8035mt Sia Kangri 7422m Muztagh Tower 7284mt G?IV 7925m Miter Peak 6025m Golden Throne (7240m). Meals & O/n in Camp

D- 12 Concordia ? Gasherbrum-I & II BC
Continue trek to Gasherbrum-I & II Base camp. Meals & O/n in Camp

D-13 ?51 39 Days for climbing activities to Gasherbrum-I (8068-M) & Gasherbrum -II (8035-M)
Meals & O/n in camp


D- 52 Gasherbrum-II BC ?Ali Camp
Full day trek to Ali Camp. 4800m. Meals & O/n in Camp

D- 53 Ali Camp - Dalsangpa
Trek to Khursipin after crossing Gondogoro La Pass 5680 Mts. We leave camp at about 1:00 a.m. to climb the Gondogoro La (5680-m). For the first two hours we walk on the lateral moraine to avoid crevasses. As we get closer to the pass we shift on snow until the base of the pass. The final ascent involves a steep walk on snow and, depending on conditions, the use of fixed ropes as well as crampons and ice axe. The views from the top of the pass are unparalleled, with K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I to IV, Masherbrum, and many other mountains appearing at our level. The descent on the Hushe side is steeper, requiring good balance on the rocks. Continue trek to Dalsanpga, as we leave Khuispan, we make a long traverse of the Gondogoro Glacier, first encountering small crevasses, then hiking over the soft ice of the Glacier. The last half-hour is a pleasant stroll though wildflowers, with Commanding views of the Gondogoro Glacier, Yermanadu Kangri (23,495 ft.) Masherbrum South (25,604 ft.), and the Masherbrum La Camp at (13980 ft.) by two small lakes,

D- 54 Dalsangpa ?Shaitcho
Trek to Shaitcho (3-4 hrs) via wild roses, Cedar and Tamarish Bushes to Shaitcho. Meals & O/n in Camp
We gradually leave the icy landscapes and descend to the meadow and pastureland at Shaitcho (12,300 ft.). Although we've left the icy wilds, we still have tremendous views of the mountains, including Namika Peak and Defokhar (21,464 ft.).

D- 55 Shaitcho ?Hushe
Trek to Hushe along the east bank of river. Meals & O/n in Camp
Hushe, Descend to the Gondogoro River, enjoying spectacular views of K6 (23,881 ft.), K7 (22,744 ft.) and Link Sar (23,094 ft.). We continue to descend, passing through small summer settlement en route to the green irrigated fields at Hushe (10,500 ft.),
The Hushe Valley runs from Masherbrum Mountains (at 7821 meters) the 24th highest in the world, first climbed by the American in 1960. South to the Shyok River, opposite Khaplu. Hushe, the last village up the valley, is about 140 kilometers east of Skardu and is the starting point for treks to various summer pastures up five glaciers.

D- 56 Hushe ?Skardu
Drive to Skardu passing through many picturesque villages including Khapalu Village, perched on vertical rocks. This part of Baltistan appears greener and more prosperous than on our drive to Thongal.
Khapalu Village: This handsome village of timber-and-stone houses and precision-made dry walls climbs up a wide alluvial fan beneath an arc of sheer granite walls. Painstaking irrigation has made it a shady, fertile oasis. As you climb its twisting track, the icy peaks of the Masherbrum Range rise on the other side of the valley. It?s hard to imagine a more majestic setting near a public road anywhere in Pakistan. The main attractions are the 2600m-high village itself, the old Royal Place and even older Mosque above it at Chakchun, and the heart-stopping views.
Meals & overnight at Shangri-La Resort

D- 57 Skardu ?Chilas
Drive back to Chilas by Karakorum highway (8-9 hrs) meals O/n at Shangri-La Resort.

D- 58 Chilas ?Islamabad
Drive to Islamabad (11-12 hrs) O/n at hotel

D- 59 Islamabad (De-Briefing)
Morning De-Briefing with Ministry of Tourism afternoon free for shopping. Meals & overnight at hotel

D- 60 Fly back
Transfer to Islamabad Airport for International Flight

60 days Quotation for G-I & GII expeditions 2004

Price based sharing twin room & tent
Detail of Expense 07 ?Pax 08- Pax 09- Pax
HGP Land Cost 2650 Euro 2450 Euro 2300 Euro
Royalty for G-II (4000 Euro) & G-I (4000 Euro)
Total = 8000 Euro 1143 Euro 1000 Euro 889 Euro
Additional Royalty Fee for G-I (670 Euro) & G-II 670 Euro) Total = 1340 Euro Nil 168 Euro 298 Euro
Environmental Tax (180 Euro for G-I & 180 Euro for G-II) Total= 360 Euro 52 Euro 45 Euro 40 Euro
Liaison Officer Wages 970 Euro 139 Euro 122 Euro 108 Euro
Total Price Per Person in Euro 3984 Euro 3785 Euro 3635 Euro




Services Included in given price
Pick and drop airport / Hotels
Hotels with full board meals, (Islamabad- Skardu - Islamabad)
Transport by mini bus with fully air-conditioned (Islamabad -Skardu-Islamabad)
Jeep 4x4 (Skardu-Thongal & Hushe-Skardu)
Camping Food (Thongal- Gasherbrum-I & II BC-Hushe)
Porters (Thongal- Gasherbrum-I& II BC -Hushe)
Porters Food + Equipment)
Personal Baggage 50 KGs Per person
Royalty for Gasherbrum-I 4000 Euro 7 per team
Royalty for Gasherbrum ?II 4000 Euro 7 Per Team
Additional Royalty Fee 670 Euro per Additional Member for G-I
Additional Royalty Fee 670 Euro per Additional Member for G-II
Liaison officers? wages 970 Euro
Liaison officers ?transport and accommodation
Environmental protection tax.180 Euro non-refundable for G-I
Environmental protection tax.180 Euro non-refundable for G-II
Professional Guide (member of Alpine Club). (Islamabad ? BC- Islamabad)
Cook - Camping Equipment (Pax Sleeping Tents (Dome),
Mess tent, Kitchen tent, and Toilet tent, Mattresses, Chairs - Tables Lamps)
Complete Kitchen utensils.
Insurance?s (Guide /Cook/ /Porters- Liaison officer- Sherpa
Arrange Briefing and De-Briefing with Ministry of Tourism
Assist to deposit of the Pollution control fund.
Assist to get climbing permit
Tips for baggage handling at airport & at hotels
FEES: (Bridge crossing - Cable crossing- Camping)

Services Not Included in the given price
International and Domestic flight
Helicopter Charges 6000 USD in case of use for rescue
Airport taxes?Cargo and Custom clearance fee
Mountaineering parties shall also deposit refundable amount of 1000 USD or equivalent in Pakistani currency in
the authorized bank in Pakistan. The amount would be subject to forfeiture in full or in part thereof in case the expedition or any of its members causes damage to environment.
Liaison officer Complete Kit
Satellite Phone Permit fee
If need high altitude porters 1850 Euro Per Porter (which includes their equipment/Kit ?wages
Insurance and food till BC,
If need extra Low altitude Porter 160 Euro Per Porter
Single Supplement 200 Euro Per Single
High altitude food, and no any services or equipment above base camp
Optional excursions or deviations from the scheduled tour
Sleeping bag and all personal expenses such as telephone, fax, email charges, liquor or soft drinks,
Room service, gratuities for personal services, items of a purely personal nature